Bed Edges and Mulch Depth: The Detail That Changes a Property

Of everything we do on a property, the two details that change how it reads from the street most for the least money are the bed edge and the mulch.

The edge

A crisp, defined edge between turf and bed does something disproportionate: it makes the whole property look intentional. A mediocre lawn with sharp edges reads as maintained; an excellent lawn with turf creeping into the beds reads as neglected.

A cut edge — a clean trench between turf and bed — is the cleanest look and it needs redefining a couple of times a year as the turf grows back into it. Physical edging holds a line longer but has to be installed properly or it heaves and shows.

Mulch depth

Two to three inches. That is it.

• Less than two and it does not suppress weeds or hold moisture — the two things mulch is for.
• More than four and it starts working against you: it can shed water rather than absorbing it, it holds too much moisture against stems, and deep mulch goes anaerobic and sours.

And top up rather than piling on. Raking and refreshing an existing layer is the right approach; adding three inches every spring is how a bed ends up eight inches deep.

Off the trunks and stems

The mulch volcano — mulch piled in a cone against a trunk — is the most common and most damaging mulching error there is. Bark is not adapted to being buried against constant moisture. It softens, admits decay, and the tree slowly declines from the root collar.

Pull mulch back several inches from every trunk and stem so the root flare is visible. It looks better and it stops the damage.

What mulch to use

Coarse organic material — pine bark, wood chips, pine straw. It breaks down and improves the soil, which is a benefit rock does not offer. Rock has its uses in specific situations, and in a Florida bed against a south wall it reflects a great deal of heat onto the plants.

Dyed mulches are a cosmetic choice. They fade, and the colour is the only thing you are buying.