Lawn Care
Identifying the Weeds Actually Growing in Central Florida Lawns
Weed control products are category-specific, and putting a broadleaf product on a grassy weed does nothing at all. Before buying anything, work out which of three categories you are looking at.
The three categories
Broadleaf
Wide leaves with a branching vein pattern, growing distinctly differently from the grass around them. Dollarweed, clover, chickweed, spurge, Florida betony.
These are the easiest to control selectively in turf, because they are botanically distant from grass.
Grassy
Look like grass, because they are grass. Crabgrass, goosegrass, torpedograss, Bermuda invading St. Augustine.
Much harder, because anything that kills a grass tends to kill your grass. Control is largely about prevention with pre-emergent, and about the fact that a dense, correctly mown lawn crowds them out.
Sedges
Look like grass at a glance and are not. The tell is the stem: sedge stems are triangular in cross-section. Roll one between your fingers and you can feel the edges. Grass stems are round.
Sedges also tend to grow faster than the surrounding lawn, so they stand proud a couple of days after mowing. They need sedge-specific products — broadleaf and grassy herbicides do not touch them.
The ones we see most here
- Dollarweed. Round, coin-like leaves with the stem attached in the centre. Almost always indicates too much water — it is a wetness indicator as much as a weed.
- Doveweed. Looks deceptively like St. Augustine, which is why it spreads unnoticed. Emerges late, loves wet ground.
- Nutsedge. Triangular stem, faster-growing, yellow-green. Reproduces from tubers, so pulling it spreads it.
- Torpedograss. Aggressive rhizomatous grass, genuinely difficult, and honestly the hardest thing on this list to control in St. Augustine.
- Crabgrass. Prostrate, light green, spreads from a central point. A summer annual, so pre-emergent timing is the control.
- Florida betony. Also called rattlesnake weed, with distinctive white tubers underground.
What weeds tell you
Weeds are opportunists. A thick, correctly mown, correctly watered lawn has very few, because there is nowhere for them to establish. A lawn full of weeds has a growing-conditions problem, and the weed species usually tells you what it is:
- Dollarweed and sedges — too much water, or a drainage problem.
- Spurge and crabgrass — thin turf and exposed soil.
- Moss and algae — shade and permanently wet.
Killing them without changing the conditions means they come back.
Be careful what you spray
St. Augustine is sensitive to several common herbicides, particularly in summer heat. Reading the label for the specific grass type and the temperature limits is not optional — the wrong product on St. Augustine kills the lawn, not the weed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I tell a sedge from a grass weed?+
Roll the stem between your fingers. Sedge stems are triangular in cross-section and you can feel the edges; grass stems are round. Sedges also grow faster than the surrounding lawn, so they stand proud a couple of days after mowing.
Why does dollarweed keep coming back?+
Because it is a wetness indicator as much as a weed. Dollarweed thrives where the ground is consistently too wet, so killing it without addressing the irrigation schedule or the drainage means it returns.
Can I use any weed killer on St. Augustine?+
No — St. Augustine is sensitive to several common herbicides, particularly in summer heat. Always check the label for the specific grass type and the temperature limits. The wrong product kills the lawn rather than the weed.
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